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Several provincial
marine parks are located along the Sunshine Coast, most with undeveloped
facilities. Boaters may find freshwater at the occasional one, but
should always bring their own. Much of the coastline is sheltered,
which provides good protection for those in small paddlecraft or
motorboats.
Marine parks along the Sechelt Peninsula include Simson, Buccaneer
Bay, Smuggler Cove, and Garden Bay. Simson Provincial
Park enjoys a particularly pretty location on South Thormanby Island,
with a blend of sandy beaches, forested slopes, and tranquil coves.
Spyglass Hill at the north end of the island is a prominent landmark
to watch for after launching from Halfmoon Bay north of Sechelt.
Marine parks around Malaspina Peninsula include Desolation Sound
(British Columbia's largest marine park, and which now includes
the Curme Islands), the Copeland Islands, Roscoe Bay, Walsh Cove,
and Teakerne Arm.
Sechelt Peninsula
If it weren't for a small neck of land less than a half mile wide,
a large portion of the peninsula north of Sechelt would be an island,
cut off from the mainland. This wedge of sand backs ocean water,
which flows from the northwestern entrance to the inlet near Egmont,
into three inlets: Sechelt Inlet (the largest), and Salmon and Narrows
Inlets, which branch east from Sechelt Inlet. Sechelt
Inlets Marine Provincial Recreation Area is a narrow, fjordlike
environment where old-growth forest plummets down the sides of the
Caren Range mountains to the ocean. Beaches are limited, and where
they do occur you'll find small park sites suited for rest stops
or overnighting. Given the rocky shoreline of much of the Sechelt
Inlet and its two branches - Salmon and Narrows Inlets - you'll
be relieved to reach one of the sites when the wind rises and makes
paddling extremely difficult.
It takes the better part of a day to paddle the 22 miles (35 km)
from the federal dock in Sechelt
to Egmont at the north end
of the inlet via Skookumchuk Narrows. You can reduce the
paddle time by launching at Porpoise Bay
Provincial Park or private Tillicum Bay Marina, a good place
to leave your car if you're going on an overnight paddle. Both the
park and the marina are located on East Porpoise Bay Road (Sechelt
Inlet Road) in Sechelt. It's only about a 2-mile (3-km) paddle from
the marina to the first marine-park site at Tuwanek Point. Two of
the trickiest sections involve crossing the mouth of Salmon Inlet,
where strong winds can quickly turn a leisurely paddle into a maddening
fight, and navigating Tzoonie Narrows in Narrows Inlet where, unless
you enter the narrows at a favourable tide, you're in for a battle
against the current.
There are 8
marine-park campsites located on both sides of Sechelt Inlet and
along Narrows Inlet in Sechelt Inlets Marine Provincial Recreation
Area. Wilderness sites with basic amenities are located at Halfway,
Tuwanek Point, Nine Mile Point, Kunechin Point, and Piper
Point. Undeveloped sites are located at Tzoonie Narrows,
Thornhill, and Skaiakos Point. Most sites are located
within a mile or two (2 to 3 km) of each other and provide welcome
resting places, particularly when strong winds funnel through the
inlets on summer days. Note that there is no access to these sites
from the community of Tuwanek.
Simson
Provincial Park enjoys a particularly pretty location and occupies
much of South Thormanby Island. It's only a 2-mile (3-km) paddle
from the public boat ramp in Halfmoon
Bay across Welcome Passage to the east side of South Thormanby,
the larger of two similarly named islands. Paddlers can not only
explore Simson but also Buccaneer Bay Provincial
Park, on the west side of North Thormanby Island, as well as
many bays and headlands around Smuggler
Cove Marine Park, just north of Halfmoon Bay.
There's lovely
freshwater paddling on Ruby Lake, which most folks only get
to admire from their vehicle as they pass by. Stop at Dan Bosch
Regional Park on Ruby Lake, where you'll find just the place to
launch, as well as picnic and swim. Ruby Lake Lagoon provides a
safe home to over 80 species of birds, including a growing abundance
of North America's most beautiful waterfowl, the Wood Duck. Other
wildlife at Ruby Lake includes painted turtles, beavers, otters,
Roosevelt elk, deer and bears.
Malaspina
Peninsula
Since it was completed in 1983, the Powell
Forest Canoe Route has come to be recognized as one of the more
significant paddle routes in the province, right up there with the
Bowron Lakes in the Cariboos. Whereas the Bowron Lakes presents
an extended 7 to 10 day, 72-mile (116-km) canoe and kayak route
through six major lakes linked by portages, and requires reservations,
the Powell Forest route can be done in small or big bites. There's
room for everyone on this eight-lake journey, and paddlers can attempt
it whenever the feeling moves them.
The full-on, 48-mile (80-km) trip requires five to seven days to
complete and includes almost 7 miles (11 km) of portages. A shorter
7.75-mile (12.5-km) route takes three days and includes about 3
miles (5 km) of portages. You can avoid the portage between Lois
and Horseshoe Lakes by putting in at Nanton Lake, but then you'd
miss one of the most scenic stretches of original forest in this
region that has been so methodically flooded and stripped of coastal
old-growth. Canoe racks are provided in many places along the portages,
which not only gives paddlers a chance to rest their shoulders but
also provides an opportunity to look around the interior of the
forest where remnants of old logging activity persist in many places.
It's important to acquaint yourself with the lakes in advance of
setting out. Each has its own characteristics: some are deep, others
are exposed to strong winds. Altogether, there are 20 campsites
sprinkled along the route, good places to hold up while waiting
out a blow.
Other lakes
well worth paddling in this extensive network include Inland
Lake and newly protected Confederation Lake, which, along
with Haslan Lake, comprises a complete watershed with extensive
recreation values. Confederation Lake lies north of Inland Lake
and can be reached by following Inland Lake Forest Road. (Note:
Access to Haslam Lake, part of the municipal watershed, is restricted.)
Warm waters
and wildlife! Desolation Sound with its unusually warm Pacific
waters (74F), prolific marine wildlife and spectacular scenery provides
some of the best sea kayaking opportunities in the world. Desolation
Sound Marine Park possesses a magical magnetism that draws boaters
and paddlers from distant shores. Most of those who arrive aboard
'stinkpots' tend to congregate in popular anchorages, such as Prideaux
Haven, Tenedos Bay, and Grace Harbour, much as 'fifth-wheelers'
converge on RV parks. Be a little more imaginative and you'll find
plenty of isolated bays and campsites throughout Desolation Sound's
more than 37 miles (60 km) of coastline. One of the prime attractions
of these waters is their warmth in summer months, which makes them
ideal for swimming and snorkeling.
The scenery is less severe than many of the other sheer-sided waterways
along the central coast, although just as majestic. Snowcapped peaks
of the Coast Mountains soar from the tideline to heights of 7,875
feet (2400 m). Boaters and paddlers will discover an environment
nearer in spirit to the protected waters of the southern Strait
of Georgia. What Desolation Sound provides that the southern Gulf
Islands don't is an astonishing breeding ground for shellfish, principally
oysters. Whoever penned the time-honoured expression 'When the tide
is out, the table is spread' must have been inspired by these nutrient-rich
waters.
There are two
approaches to Desolation Sound, either from Lund
or nearby Okeover Arm Provincial Park
at the head of the inlet. A boat ramp is located at each location.
From Lund, paddlers can explore Savary Island, with its endless
sandy beaches and shallow waters extending out for miles from shore.
Copeland Islands Marine Provincial Park
is just a short paddle away, and offers many islands to meander
amongst and view the wonderful intertidal marine life.
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